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When autumn sets in, Madrid exhales a shared sigh of relief. All venues is open again, and the intense summer heat, which appears to radiate from the buildings and pavements, has mellowed into pleasantly warm temperatures. It's the perfect climate for relaxing on a outdoor patio as the sunlight warms your skin and day transitions into evening. Noise levels have gone back to typical, which means the city is bustling once more.

It feels as if the whole population is gathered on the streets, catching up with friends and discussing about everything they plan to do, the films they hope to see, the new bars they've heard about, and the eateries they fancy try in the weeks ahead. If you could do with a boost, spend a few days in the city of Madrid this fall.

The dazzling light and bright skies lift your mood the moment you arrive. The city being the most elevated major capital in Europe could be something to do with that. It is also a relatively young capital. Arabs established a presence here in the ninth century, constructing a fortress where the king's residence and cathedral now stand, but Madrid truly flourished when King Philip II moved his court here from the city of Toledo in 1561, founding the city as the new capital of Spain.

To get a sense of the city's history, walk from the Puerta del Sol – the heart not just of Madrid but of the whole of Spain – to the historic Plaza Mayor, which is surrounded by redbrick buildings with grey rooftops and spindly spires. Then stroll along the curved street, which traces the course of the 12th-century city wall. Remnants survive in the lower levels of several bars and restaurants that originated as inns and public houses for merchants and travellers who arrived by stagecoach.

In Madrid, you immerse yourself in the city's heritage just by exploring on foot. In the Literary Quarter, the tavern-dotted streets are dedicated to the renowned writers who resided there in the 16th and 17th centuries, such as Cervantes, Quevedo, and Lope de Vega.

Step inside, find yourself a place at the bar and you'll wonder why you aren't residing in Madrid

You could spend weeks in the city's major museums – Prado, Thyssen-Bornemisza, and Reina Sofía – but try to include some additional ones too. The Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando gets a small number of the visitors, despite being near the main square and having astounding collections that include Francisco Goya, El Greco, Pablo Picasso, and Francisco de Zurbarán.

This autumn, I'm looking forward to the Suma Flamenca (14 Oct-2 Nov), where top flamenco dancers, vocalists, and musicians will be performing new work such as Flamenco Gospel by Juan Carmona. The primary festival venue is the Teatros del Canal, an cultural center created by Baldeweg, one of Spain's most celebrated architects, who is also an artist (an show of his work is on at Centro Centro until December 14). The Teatros del Canal is also a central point for the Autumn Festival (6-30 Nov), one of the top events of the year, with theatre, concerts, and more by Spanish and international artists.

The Chamberí district, where the Canal Theatres is found, is in a more local area, just north of downtown. The most classic and characterful areas of the city, regarded as the homes of a "authentic" and distinctive Madrileño spirit, are called barrios castizos – and this district definitely qualifies that category. Base yourself here for a more genuine feel – try the grand and stylish One Shot Fortuny, which has doubles from around £160 room-only in the autumn.

As you wander, notice the flowers spilling over the metal balconies and the gleaming fruit and vegetables outside little shops (particularly the fungi at this season) and glance inside the tiny, tiled bars where locals are having a fast coffee or beer. Enter, grab a seat at the bar and you'll marvel why you aren't living in Madrid.

Trafalgar, the part of the district closest to the centre, is fast becoming one of the most fashionable parts of town, but still has a relaxed, community feel. I've been catching up with friends in the Plaza de Olavide for decades and seen it go through umpteen makeovers.

Eight streets flow into the square, bringing a steady flow of people looking for friends and dragging chairs to form messy groups of every generation that change constantly as the night progresses. It's normal to plan to meet one friend here, and find yourself with a group of ten.

New bars, diners, art spaces, and boutiques are starting up in historic locations here, but I love that the owners behind them are preserving the authentic fixtures and fittings or hunting down zinc or steel counters and refurbishing old bar stools to restore the castizo charm, while also adding their own contemporary vibe. Visit Bar Trafalgar for a cocktail – or maybe a aperitif and a ham and cheese toasted sandwich – and you'll see what I mean. It's the type of spot that works at all hours of day or night. I also enjoy the Olavide Book Bar too, both a bookshop and a cafe – browsing books and drinking a glass of wine are among of my preferred things.

Also on my list this fall is Architecture Week (until 13 Oct, although some displays run beyond that date). The schedule includes an Siza show (until 9 Jan 2026) at the Colegio Oficial de Arquitectos de Madrid, a short stroll from the Olavide Square. This is followed by Madrid Another Look (October 16-19), when you can tour historic buildings and parks that are not normally open to the public.

At the Fernán Gómez Cultural Center, Leica Photography Exhibition, features work by Salgado, Steve McCurry, and Alberto García-Alix and is open until January 11. And I'll be reserving in advance for Warhol, Pollock and other American spaces at the Thyssen-Bornemisza (October 21 to January 25).

While there's certainly a lot to see and do at this time of year, you should avoid to get too hung up on filling your days with plans. Madrid is all about embracing spontaneity. Drift around Parque del Buen Retiro for a few hours, taking in the strikingly bright pink and ochre tones of the oak trees, chestnut trees, and willow. Leave the park on the eastern edge, where Ibiza Street and the nearby streets have become a culinary destination. I love tapas at the bar at La Catapa or Rox Tavern, although both offer tables if you want to rest tired feet.

There's a lot to see and do at this season, but avoid overload your days with plans. Madrid is all about being spontaneous

For more fall colors, it's now a lot easier to visit the elegant Campo del Moro, which descend from the palace to the river. There used to be only one entrance, down by the river – which always seemed like a long walk after traipsing around the palace. A lot of people weren't aware that the gardens were open to visitors. Now, fortunately, you can get in from the top end, from the Cuesta de San Vicente or the Cuesta de la Vega, which is really handy if you are going to the Royal Collections Museum as there is a connected entrance.

If you haven't been Madrid for a few years, this museum, which opened in 2023, is a must, with paintings by Bosch, Titian, Diego Velázquez, and Francisco Goya as well as a vast array of treasures {collected|